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02/20/14 Hoi Polloi at the Ace Hotel Shoreditch

Patrons of Hoi Polloi, the all-day brasserie at the Ace Hotel’s new Shoreditch outpost, enter through a flower shop. The guise of ubiquity underscores the restaurant’s name, rooted in Greek as “the many.” Influenced by post-modern concert halls and the expansive architecture of restaurants in Stockholm and Buenos Aires, interiors are just as welcoming. “The interior we hope moves away from the current trend of scenographic heritage rooms with constructed histories,” says owner Pablo Flack. “Lighting and acoustics were also considered in detail, and these are important in creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere for our guests.”

Photographer Credit : Ed Reeve

Certainly, the space encourages focus on conversation and food. And rightfully so considering the selection of hearty English fare incorporating seasonal produce. Earlier in the day, lighter dishes such as poached egg and mushroom broth mingle with classics like a full English breakfast and eggs benedict. Pork cheeks with spiced apple or a chicken and cabbage broth, Flack’s favorite, are supper staples, all chosen from a menu where back pages are printed with local art or open letters to Putin.

“Layers like the back page on the menu and the Polari names for cocktails add extra interest for guests and allow us to have playful and regularly changing content,” says Flack, who in the coming months plans to introduce late-night suppers with guest maître d’s, tea and cocktail trolleys, guest editors, “and as the seasons change, lots of great English produce on the menu.”

Over meals worthy of sharing, diners will find many a talking point—a quality bound to secure Hoi Polloi as a neighborhood haunt. “It’s a large democratic brasserie, which makes sense to a vibrant and busy part of the city,” says Flack of venturing on his and partner David Waddington’s third restaurant after seafood joint Shrimpy’s and fashion crowd favorite Bistrotheque. In an area teeming with culture and independent enterprise, consider this one a real crowd pleaser.

Location: Shoreditch High Street, London

Neighborhood Recommendation: “Shopping: Start, Present, SCP, and Murdock all have great clothes, furniture, and accessories. Artworld book stop is well curated and has some rare editions. Drinking at Happiness Forgets in Hoxton Square for cocktails or, for traditional booze with a twist, the legend that is The George & Dragon.” –Pablo Flack

Photographer Credit : Ed Reeve

Photographer Credit : Ed Reeve